Alkmaar
It's hard not to like Alkmaar and you may even love it.
It's got history and a special place in Dutch hearts as a result - for it was here that the overthrow of Spanish rule began during the 80-years war with the Spanish in the late 16th century. The saying goes Bij Alkmaar begint de victorie,(Victory begins at Alkmaar) and it's celebrated in the city on the 8th of October. The date marks the anniversary of William of Orange's decision to open the dyke floodgates, which caused the Spanish who had been besieging the city to do a runner, sharpish.
It's a calmer place now but with a wonderful sense of history, sights and a lively personality. Old it may be, preserved in aspic it isn't. I would argue the toss with Lonely Planet who reckon Alkmaar's charms are modest, Fridays when the Kaasmarkt is on excepted.
Ah, cheese. It's taken me 100 or so words to mention it but you can't take the Gouda out of Alkmaar no matter how hard you try.
On the stroke of 10am every Friday between April and September (and coming soon on Tuesday evenings to cater for the demand) white-clad porters sporting colour-coded straw boaters from four cheese guilds emerge from their office/bar in the Waaggebouw to ferry 13 kilo rounds of Gouda up and down the Kaasmarkt on green sleds. Meanwhile it's bartered over using a system called 'handjeklap' and tested for flavour - sometimes with the help of the tourist crowds.
The whole thing is a confection - the cheese isn't being traded, or conveyed anywhere other than around the market. But it is a lovely way of keeping the traditions of the city alive and a great way for the local cheese makers to make a bomb selling their wares to the throng around the square.
Top pick - Kaasmuseum Alkmaar
Whey to go. The home of cheese hosts the cheesiest museum in the world. But in Alkmaar, that's a compliment.
The Museum is actually in the corner of the Waaggebouw, the City's most easily found landmark, and is upstairs from the VVV tourist office.
Over 2 floors, it explores the history of Dutch cheese-making and its cultural and economic significance.
Like most Dutch museums (they should just be allowed to run museums and railway systems everywhere) the emphasis is on interactivity and fun with lodas of videos, games and quizzes on consoles. So it's a great pick for families with school-age kids. Everything is in English.
Best of all it is but Euro 5 for grown ups, children 4-12 Euro 3, and below that free. It's also free with the local Alkmaarpass or Museumkart.
They even give you a small wedge of the local Alkmaar cheese on the way in to get you in the mood.
Nationaal Biermuseum De Boom
A Museum in a former brewery, appropriately enough, this is a pleasingly homespun affair on three floors, but the real attraction is the lively canal-side bar downstairs which features a great selection of Dutch and Belgian brews for non-rip off prices. Friendly bar staff too. In the Museum, the best section is the marketing on the 3rd floor. See if you can spot the Amstel beer can featuring Johann Cruyff. Entrance, 4 Euro for a grown up.
Where to stay - top pick
The Kings Inn Hotel/Hostel
Right in the heart of the city (a minute's stroll from the Waagplein) this quirky hostel/hotel/brasserie has a lovely relaxed style, friendly staff, inexpensive food and drink and a range of room options to suit modest budgets and upwards. The hostel is behind the funky bar/kitchen (great range of beers) and just around the corner is half-a-street's worth of hotel room options. Quirky and fun and great value. If you want to explore the city at a slightly faster pace, they also do bike hire (Euro 50 deposit, 15 Euro hire for a bike and lock).
